Lens Focal Length - What it is and What it Does


The focal length of your lens is it's main characteristic. It determines your angle of view, that is, how close or how far away you have to be from your photographic subject to capture it in a certain size. With a short focal length (wide-angle lens) you can stand close to somebody and still capture their full body size. Opposite, with a long focal length (tele-photo lens) you can stand far away from somebody and still get a close-up picture. Briefly, the wide-angle lenses are considered good for landscapes and photojournalism since you can capture the whole scene in the same shot and the long tele-photo lens is considered good for sport, wildlife and paparazzi photography, since you can be relatively far away from your subject, ideal if you don't want to disturb it or be noticed. The range of lenses and focal lengths available is listed here:
Fish-eye lenses: 8-14 mm
Ultra wide-angle lenses: 15-20 mm
Wide-angle lenses: 20-40 mm
Normal lenses: 40-60 mm
Portrait lenses: 80-100 mm
Moderate tele-photo lenses: 90-150 mm
Tele-photo lenses: 150-300 mm
Extreme tele-photo lenses: 300-1000 mm
Note: The focal lengths given here are by the "35mm equivalent" scale. Modern pocket-size digital cameras use a different scale and you might see something like "focal length 2.8-9 mm" on one of these. This does not mean that everything is taken with an extreme wide-angle / fish-eye look. Refer to your camera manual to see how it converts into the 35 mm equivalent.
Now the question is, what focal length is good to use and in which circumstances?
It is often said that the fish-eye and wide-angle lenses provide an exaggerated perspective and a large depth of field (depth of focus). Strictly speaking though, this is not true since the perspective only depends on where you stand in relation to your subject and the depth of field only depends on what lens aperture you are using.
But these truisms, technically incorrect perhaps, are there for a reason. The thing about the exaggerated perspective comes about since, with a wide-angle lens you'll normally go closer to your subject in order to fill your frame. Taking a picture of a rose, for instance, with a 20 mm lens you'll need to be within one foot distance in order to render it in a decent size on your print. With a 200 mm lens however, you'll normally take a few steps back, thereby changing your perspective. So while the perspective strictly speaking isn't determined by the lens itself, for practical purposes it is.
In order to avoid the 'exaggerated perspective' there is a good rule of thumb saying that you should be at a distance of at least 10 times the depth of your subject. Things like the size of your final print and the intended viewing distance also plays a role, but for simplicity's sake let's just follow the rule of thumb: If the rose is 10 cm across, you'll have to be at least 100 cm (1 meter) away from it to avoid exaggerating the perspective. Once you've decided on your distance and viewpoint, just zoom your lens to the focal length that fills the frame with a nice composition.
Now nobody says that you have to get a 'correct' perspective, certainly I don't. But for some purposes it is more important than others. If you're taking a close-up photo of someone's face for instance, exaggerating the perspective and making their nose look huge can do bad things for your popularity. Again, determine the depth of the visible parts of your subject, in case of a human face straight-on, it will usually be about 15-20 cm from the tip of the nose to the back of the ear. Then multiply by 10 and move back until you are at least 1.5-2 meters away and zoom in to fill the frame. Your focal length will typically be in the area of 100 mm which is incidentally referred to as a portrait lens.
In case of big landscapes, long streets etc. it is impossible to be 10 times further away from it than the total depth of the entire scene. To capture such scenes from close to far away, you'll normally need a wide-angle lens and the perspective will as a result be 'exaggerated'. This has a charm of it's own though. It can result in a nice sense of depth in the photo.
With a long tele-photo lens your perspective will often become flat since you'll be a bit far away and the relative distances from you to the subject and the background are not that much different. And thus, the 'flat' perspective arises because the background objects aren't rendered that much smaller than objects a little closer to you.
Now about the depth of field that the lens provides, as I said before, strictly speaking it doesn't depend on the lens focal length. But for practical purposes, it does! When you zoom in on something, making your focal length longer, you magnify that part of your image more and more, thereby increasing what's known as 'the circle of confusion'. It is exactly equivalent to cropping your short focal length photo and thus, since it's basically the same image, it has the exact same depth of field. Confused? Don't let it keep you awake at night. When you look through your camera viewfinder or at the LCD screen on the back of it, you'll see what's in focus and what isn't.
A more important thing to be aware of is that when you zoom in and use a long focal length, it gets more important to keep your camera steady. A tripod is best, but it can be a bother to log around with all day long. Instead, try to look around you and see if you can put your camera down on a table or a stone somewhere, making it rock steady. If not, at least try to steady yourself by leaning slightly against a tree or something. And use a quick shutter speed. If you are using a focal length of, say, 300 mm, then use a shutter speed of no more than 1/300th of a second. You might want to make it even less, perhaps 1/500th of a second to be sure not to let that shaky hand of yours blur the picture. Even slight hand-shaking from your pulse can blur your image when using long lenses, so be sure to follow this rule of thumb. Some modern tele-photo lenses have a stabilization mechanism build into them, and this can greatly reduce hand-shake on the lens, allowing shutter speeds to be 4 to 8 times longer.
The author, Morten Svenningsen, is an international photographer in Nepal, Asia Visit his web site http://www.mortensvenningsen.com to see hundreds of documentary photos, travel photos and portraits. It's even possible to order a few posters.
Article Source: Morten_Svenningsen

How To Reduce Camera Shake

When your photos are having a blur, it is caused by camera shake, but there is a range of solutions to prevent this from happening. Camera shake happens when your digital camera's shutter speed is too slow to freeze a scene that you are photographing.
General
Slow shutter speeds are a result of using a lens that has a long focal length and would reduce light reaching the camera's sensor, or it is dark. Here we will discuss ways to prevent camera shake from happening and what support accessories you can look at to provide you with a solution.
Adjusting Your Shutter Speed To Prevent Shake:
Always use the shutter speed that is the reciprocal of the lens focal length to prevent camera shake in your photos. Let's take an example, if your lens focal length is 100mm, your shutter speed must be at least 1/100th second. If your lens focal length is 150mm, you shutter speed must be at least 1/150th second.
If you are not familiar to control your shutter speed on a digital camera, then you will need to support the camera.
Basic digital cameras do not always have an option to adjust shutter speeds, so a support is required such as a tripod or monopod. Even if you are able to control shutter speeds on your digital camera, you might still have to keep your camera as steady as possible in low light situations.
So when you would like to take a photograph of city lights or a sunset when the sun is very low, a support will help you to achieve a sharp image. Here are some support options that is best suited for a professional photographer.
Tripods:
A tripod is a digital camera support structure with three legs that the camera screws onto via a small screw lug on the tripod's mount. A tripod is very portable and easy to work with. They are ideal for long focal lengths, low light situations and shooting landscapes where sharp detail is crucial. There are many different sizes and models which professional ones are best for any environment.
Monopods:
A monopod is similar to a tripod, but with only one leg and not three, which are also designed to support a camera. You mount your camera on the top of the monopod via a tripod bush. It keeps your camera steady while you are able to manoeuvre it around.
They are not as steady as a tripod and require some practice to work with and offer a more portable solution. They can be folded down for easy transportation and are not ideal for long exposures at night. But best used for shooting a fast-moving subject with a long focal length.
Learn the true secrets on how to start a photography business from any location. My name is Gideon van Niekerk, as a successful professional photographer in South Africa, I love to take joy into couching new and professional photographers all over the globe to take charge and gain the correct knowledge. Make the right choices from day one and save thousands on your photography business investment at TruePhotoz.com.

Canon EOS Rebel SL1 Review

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Interestingly named the EOS Rebel SL1, Canon's latest entry level offering is actually the world's smallest and lightest DSLR. Weighing merely 370 grams, sans battery, memory card and kit lens, the camera is comparable to a compact point and shoot. However, it distinctly encompasses all the good things that are normally associated with a DSLR and in a form that can easily belie its capabilities. Let's take a closer look.
Main features
· 18 megapixel CMOS sensor
· DIGIC 5 image processing engine
· Full HD video recording
· 4 fps continuous shooting speed
· 9 AF points with the newly developed Hybrid AF II system
· Creative filters
· SDXC compatibility
· Video snapshot
Features explained: The Sensor
The EOS SL1 is designed around an 18 megapixel APS-C CMOS sensor. It is powered by Canon's DIGIC 5 image processing engine.
The body design
In spite of the fact that the SL1 is much smaller to any DSLR that has come out of the Canon assembly line, it surprisingly offers a bunch of physical controls. There is a dedicated exposure compensation button, exposure lock button as well as an ISO button at the top panel among others. To save precious real estate space the movie mode now sits as the third option on the power switch. Press that and then press the record button at the rear of the camera to start recording. Additionally the Q option now is merged with the SET button at the center of the rear wheel. The remaining buttons on the wheel has however no dedicated role to play. The top mode dial now can spin 360 degrees without stop just as in the Rebel T5i.
AF system and AF points
The EOS SL1 carries the same old 9-point Canon AF system with a center cross-type point at f/2.8. Cross-type AF points are capable of locking focus on a subject faster compared to a standard AF points. Additionally, Canon has incorporated the Hybrid CMOS AF II system in this camera. This combines both contrast-detect and phase-detect AF technologies to improve the auto-focusing performance. This means the camera is highly responsive when tracking subjects during movie mode or when shooting stills in live view.
The fixed touch-screen
The 3" ClearView II LCD touch-screen is non-articulated making it a bit of a damper compared to other Canon entry level DSLRs. Especially when Canon is trying to compete with MILCs this would have been a major USP. Overall though, the touch-screen is very responsive. In fact the capacitive screen works like a charm even when you are trying to shift through the menu in a hurry, giving the distinct feeling that it is a very user-friendly feature. The center SET button also brings up the fabled Q (Quick) menu of Canon and that opens up the entire controls of the camera at your fingertips.
Viewfinder
The SL1 has a pentamirror powered viewfinder that offers a coverage of 95% of what the sensor sees. This is slightly smaller than what other optical viewfinders offer. This generally creates the problem of inability to make a precise composition. So when composing always leave some margin around what you see through the viewfinder because you will capture additional items in the final picture. There is a dioptre adjustment dial which allows you to set the brightness between -3 and +1.
Continuous shooting speed
The SL1 has a burst rate of 4 fps at one-shot AF or Ai-Servo AF. The buffer overruns in about 28 shots as per Canon specifications. While this may be okay for shooting a playful pet or even your kid enjoying a sunny afternoon out in the park, this is in no way suitable for fast action or sports photography pursuits. At 4 fps it is at best humble. If you set the camera to shoot at silent-mode, when the mirror flips up and locks before the shot is taken, burst rate comes down to a modest 2.5 fps.
Pop-up flash
The EOS SL1 comes with a built-in flash. Canon rates the guide number at 9.4 meter, which is again a feeble flash, especially if you are going to take a group shot in low light conditions. However for portraiture or for fill-flash uses it is a handy flash to have.
Proximity sensor
An interesting feature that will make most photographers happy is the proximity sensor. It is located directly below the hot-shoe at the back of the camera. It certainly helps save a lot of battery when you are looking through the viewfinder.
Remote control
The EOS SL1 is compatible with Canon's infra-red based remote controller the RC-6. The sensor is located on the right hand grip area.
Storage
The camera is compatible with UHS-1 cards. It also accepts SD, SDHC and SDXC cards. Additionally, it is also eye-fi compatible making it possible to remotely transfer images shot with the camera.
The movie mode and Live-view features
The SL1 was launched along with the Rebel T5i and both the cameras boast the Movie-servo feature. What it means? Well, when shooting video the camera is likely to keep tracking as a subject walks into or away from the frame. In real world the feature is not that quick and compared with something like the dual-pixel CMOS AF system of the Canon EOS 70D, this is quite slow.
There is no built-in stereo sound recording like the Rebel T5i and videographers will have to be content only with a mono mic on the top left hand side of the hot-shoe. However, you can plug in an external stereo mic.
My take
This is certainly a small DSLR which has been designed with the sole purpose of miniaturization of all that is best about a DSLR and to compete directly with Mirrorless Interchangeable Lens Cameras that are threatening the entry-level DSLR market. Functional, simple and cost effective are what summarizes this camera in a nutshell. While professionals will never opt for one of these, the camera suitable for someone who is migrating from a point and shoot and is looking for similar size but better controls.
Rajib Mukherjee is a freelance article writer specializing on technology topics such as digital cameras and web technologies. He is also an avid traveller who loves to document his travels in his articles and through his lenses.
Article Source: Rajib_Mukherjee

4 Top Features of the Canon EOS 70d Camera

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The Canon EOS 70d is a well-rounded camera intended for the enthusiast photographer. The feature-packed EOS 70d includes the most in demand specifications, along with several upgrades from earlier models (simple-to-use touch screen, WiFi and 20.2MP APS-C sensor) to create a camera that feels comfortable in the hand and well made. Here are four standard features seen on this popular Canon camera:
Touch screen
The touch screen on the EOS 70d makes light work of changing almost any setting using the Q menu. The touch screen menu is highly responsive and crystal clear to look at. It even includes an option to pinch-zoom pictures for better clarity when viewing the latest snapped images. Besides the onscreen controls, the menus are backed up with standard physical controls to take care of the basic shooting options if preferred. The touch screen is also design to flip out to one side to make easier viewing. This is especially helpful when working with video format.
Auto focus
A high-quality auto focus system is essential to take sharp pictures. The EOS 70d is installed with the latest Dual Pixel AF technology to make it easier to shot fast-moving objects. This DSLR auto focus system includes a total of 19 focal points. This increases the cameras capabilities to focus on the subject. Also, the 70d comes with a bigger 20.2MP sensor to help improve the contrast and clarity of the picture quality.
Video
A further aspect of the Dual Pixel AF technology is the ability to increase the quality of video recordings. Earlier models of the DSLR cameras had issues with loss of focus as objects moved around. This problem is solved with the 70d due to its ability to swiftly auto focus as the camera is moved from subject to subject. The camera supports standard HD (50 and 60p) and full HD video (24, 25 and 30p) capture.
WiFi
The Canon EOS 70d includes WiFi as standard and a welcome feature for a number of reasons. WiFi access offers complete ease in connecting the camera to a computer, tablet or smart phone. This makes it easy to download and view pictures using the Canon EOS app. Pictures can also be printed to a wireless printer or viewed on a DLNA equipped TV. Another benefit of using the app is the ability to remote control the camera. This is certain to help the photo shots taking place in a studio.
Get a lot more information on the impressive features of the Canon EOS 70d camera.
Article Source: Leo_Eigenberg

Different Types Of Photo Editing Services

People always try to preserve their memories with the help of photographs and videos. They say that photography is an art which can make things look better. Over the past few years, photo editing technologies have made lot of progress. This has simplified the job of a photographer. Now you can make unlimited adjustments and corrections to your pictures and make them look quite different. Credit goes to photo retouching service providers and photo editing software developers who had been doing a great job of creating breakthrough tools and filters that help us in changing the appearance of our photos.
Photo retouching involves different steps. Some photos require detailed editing while some require only certain overall changes. When a client brings a photograph for retouching, it is important to understand his expectations. It is the job of an image retouching service provider to understand the needs of his customers. Photos that require retouching are of two types. The first category includes old photographs. Classic photographs that get damaged owing to wear and tear and atmospheric factors require some repair jobs. Retouching such photographs may take time. This retouching might require the use of several editing tools and filters. Depending on the extent of damage the retouching job might require 1 to 2 days' time. Different service providers have different working style. Rates are also different and they depend on the quality of the work. For high quality work you might end up spending more bucks.
The second type of photographs includes new ones that need certain background and foreground changes. In such cases retouching involves removal of background or improvements in the foreground. Color correction and settings related to contrast and brightness are some of the basic factors that fall under this category. Editing the facial features in a photograph is also an important part. Removing black marks and stains from the face of a person is not an easy job. This has to be done very carefully and cautiously. After all the corrections the contents in the photograph should look real and natural. This is the challenging part. This is the reason why certain photo retouching service providers are popular for their work while others are infamous.
Photo retouching is an art and it requires specialized training. Professionals in this field have lot of demand and they often get lot of work to handle on a regular basis. If you wish to try your luck in photo retouching you can start with some online tutorials. There are several articles and videos in the internet that can help you to begin with photo retouching. However, for practicing advanced retouching jobs you need some professional training. There are several online and real institutes that offer different types of courses on photo editing software's like Photoshop.
Image retouching service is an art that requires professional training and an artistic sense. Sites like http://www.eurosiagraphics.com provide details about retouching and photo editing services.
Article Source: Hans_Mercer
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Selfie App For Cell Phones Needed - Instant Photoshopping Yourself With Whomever or Whatever


Yes, we need an App for that. "For what?" you ask, "for the self-indulged ego-driven self-validation seeker to complete the perfect selfie for Instagram of course," I tell you. Let me explain.
You see, the other day, I met a "Selfie Extraordinaire" at Starbucks. She has selfies with all the Walt Disney characters from her two Disneyland visits, having gone back the second time to make sure she got Tweety Bird and Wiley E. Coyote. The girl explained to me that she spent over $400 during those two days at Disneyland. She didn't need to do that. In fact, all she really needed to do was take her picture by the Matterhorn a couple of castles, and alongside some of the major attractions while she enjoyed her day at the theme park. Then we could have merely Photoshopped in the cartoon characters.
I imagine instead she went running around the park trying to track down all the cartoon characters and probably did not enjoy herself, as she was more intent on getting the pictures for Facebook and Instagram. What a waste of time and money. If folks are going to travel around the world and spend more time taking pictures than enjoying the destination, what's the use, they may as well just wait for the future of holographic virtual reality technology and use Photoshop and apps to do the rest.
Now some might say this is cheating, however consider if you will that this next generation coming up cheats on everything. They cheat on tests at Harvard, they text message their friends while they're supposed to be working or driving a car, and 20% of the profiles on Facebook are fake. Go figure. Further, it would help the environment if they wouldn't waste the fuel to travel to all these places just to take a picture. In fact as someone who travels a lot, it's quite aggravating that every time you go somewhere everyone is posing in front of all of the landmarks. It almost makes it impossible for you to get a picture of yourself at a landmark - whoops, I blew my cover.
In essence, everyone is crowded into all the tourist traps, busy taking pictures, and no one is enjoying the moment. We can solve all that, and we can do it with an app. That's what I think we need to develop a selfie app for smart phones with instant Photoshopping to put whomever or whatever you want into the picture, this will save everyone else the aggravation and frustration, and save the environment from pollution, and this entire generation a lot of time. Please consider all this and think on it.
Lance Winslow has launched a new provocative series of eBooks on Internet Topics and Concepts. Lance Winslow is a retired Founder of a Nationwide Franchise Chain, and now runs the Online Think Tank; http://www.worldthinktank.net
Article Source: Lance_Winslow

Learning About Exposure Triangle - Learn From the Basics

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However, there are not much people who have photography skill. Taking a course or learning from internet could be the one of several ways to increase the photography skills.
You may fall in love to photography activity, but don't understand how to operate the camera. Actually, there are many sources on how to learn photography nowadays, especially if you want to spare time more to browse over internet. Books also are good sources for you to learn.
Talking about photography, it is related with the art and science. When you start to capture an image, you should be able to imagine that the object is something interesting to be captured and could deliver a particular message. So, the camera lens is functioning like your eyes. What you see will be shown by the camera lens?
Understanding the Triangle Exposure
The one aspect of the camera which determines the light delivery on your pictures is exposure. Exposure in photo is the lights quantity that reach a film. It can be determined by shutter speed and lens aperture. The range of exposure can determine the picture effect. The setting of exposure on photograph includes of aperture, ISO speed and shutter speed camera. All of them are called as exposure triangle. The triangle of exposure can be said as the basic learning of DSLR camera.
a. ISO
ISO in film camera refers to how sensitive the film against to the light. The ISO in DSLR camera refers to the sensor setting instead of film. If you move the ISO speed to the lower number, it will sensitive to the light. The low setting of ISO speed will be high to the bright midday sun. The setting number is about ISO 100 or 200. Sometimes, the wrong ISO speed and the light setting will make the digital noise on your photo.
b. Shutter Speed
Shutter speed refers to time amount that the shutter on the camera will open for when you take a shot. If you set the short speed on the camera, you would get less light that hit the sensor. It can also have the "freezing" motion effect. if you set a long shutter speed, you would get more light to hit the sensor. It also will make any movement is appeared blur on the direction that was moved. For some reason, that is a desirable effect depends on what you are trying to achieve.
c. Aperture
The aperture on a camera refers to the opening size in the lens that let the lights hit the sensor. If you set the aperture in wide, it allows more lights in, and narrow allows less lights in. The measured size on opening is f/1.4, f2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/16, f/22 etc.
If you set the aperture in the small number, you will get the large opening. The aperture allows you to control the field depth.
If you want to create the good picture with good measure of exposure setting, you can follow these tips. Try to avoid the over contrast situation. You should try to work in the first 2 hours after the sunrise and before the sunset. Some of the photographers claim that it is a perfect time to get the good picture. It would be better if you don't shoot the objects at high noon. The daylight changes constantly and often create the more dramatic picture.
Understand about triangle exposure will help you feel more confident with your photography skills and understand what will be a problem when you start to shoot. ISO, shutter speed and aperture are the three fundamental elements that will affect your camera settings. To get the results you want, all of them should work together. Creating a harmonious picture could be a tricky ever. As soon as you have a lot of practice, you will increase your skill. It is really worth to try everything first before you take a picture.
Article Source: Dini_Williyanti